As such, she noted a play on the ‘relationship between past, present and future’ in the designer’s typically hybrid forms, like a prim tweed twin-set with flared puffer jacket back. Figurative illustrations by London-based Estonian artist Mariann Metsis also featured, while other ‘decorative anomalies’, like découpage, paid hommage to Kostadinov’s maternal grandmother.Ĭhitose Abe said that the inspiration for her A/W 2023 collection was Christopher Nolan’s 2014 science-fiction film Interstellar, which charts a group of explorers as they seek to travel through a time-compressing wormhole in space. As such, he noted a ‘geometric rigour’ and expansive use of colour across the vivid collection, featuring the off-kilter approach to cut and silhouettes – blouson-style jackets with V-shaped hems, caped sleeveless overcoats, wide-leg trousers puckered at the waistband – which has defined Kostadinov’s work so far. He also noted the influence of his ‘closest collaborators’ Laura and Deanna Fanning, the designers who helm the womenswear arm of his label, and their Central Saint Martins graduate collection. (Image credit: Courtesy of Kiko Kostadinov)īulgarian designer Kiko Kostadinov said that he wanted to look outside the ‘restrictive frame of menswear’ this season to do so, he referenced little-known, but nonetheless influential, avant-garde women designers Anne-Marie Beretta, Irene Lentz and Sorelle Fontana – ‘the quiet superstars of the Italian canon’.
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